Day three of my outback motorcycle tour of Queensland starts with peace and tranquillity. The wind that had dogged me from Hughenden had died away yesterday afternoon. I woke to the chatter of birds of all varieties. Pink and grey galahs swarmed through the trees. Yellow and grey parakeets with their cheeky orange spots fly in formation until they find seed and then start their incessant chatter.
I’m going ghost hunting today
I’m going ghost hunting ghosts today, and I’m exploring the myth of the song Waltzing Matilda. It is said in the song that the ghost can be heard as you pass by the billabong. I’m going to find the spot where the song was written. The hunt for the elusive ghost starts today.
Coffee before anything else on an outback motorcycle tour 
Emu outside the Blue Heller Hotel, Kynuna 
Slightly overloaded on the way to Kynuna from Julia Creek 
The Combo Waterhole, how did the poor old swaggie drown in four inches of water? No ghost to be heard.
My senses are tuned as I listen to the birds and watched the sunrise, I sat contemplating the road ahead and the elusive spirit I hoped to encounter. The Combo Waterhole was my destination, it is believed that this may have been the spot where an actual murder took place. The story plays out like a murder mystery, where a shearer, who caused some problems at a local sheep station, was tracked and killed at a waterhole. The waterhole serves as a backdrop for my ghostly quest.
Riding out of town
Day three of my outback motorcycle tour of Queensland starts when I fire Emu into life. We ride out of the Julia Creek show grounds, savouring the cool winter morning and the quintessential images of the outback. As we ride into town to refuel, it started to dawn on me that I was carrying too much weight. This became a reoccurring theme on my adventures. I fuelled up in Julia Creek, enjoying the town’s charm and its role as a hub for weary travellers.
Carpark at the Combo Waterhole 
Dry grass land as far as the eye can see. 
Kynuna Town Centre 
Watzing Matilda was first played and sung here at this piano. 
It didn’t look like this in 1890, there is version 5 of the North Queensland Hotel.
Caring strangers
As I navigated toward Kynuna, an unexpected encounter with a cattle truck driver led to a moment of panic, when I discovered my tent was missing. Luckily, a kind stranger returned my lost dry bag, showcasing the generosity of the outback. I pressed on, observing the dry landscape and cattle along the way, contemplating the essence of motorcycle touring—embracing spontaneity while savouring every moment.
Finally reaching Kynuna, I relished a nostalgic visit to the Blue Healer Hotel and a cool sweat ginger beer as in order. It’s a typical outback pub steeped in history. I reflected on its past and the adventures that awaited me. I was keen to seek the ghost that haunted the Combo Waterhole.
A long dry ride to Winton
The rest of my journey was punctuated by challenges, including sudden gusts of wind that felt like the hand of the ghost, forcing me to adapt and lean into the ride.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, I arrived in Winton. I found a camp site ready for the next chapter of my exploration. It was late, and I had avoided any encounters with the local Kangaroos.
If you want to read more about the death of that poor swaggie, and learn about the ghost, then you might like to get my book. There’s so much that can’t be written on a blog post.
