“Every time I stand before a beautiful beach, its waves seem to whisper to me: If you choose the simple things and find joy in nature’s simple treasures, life and living need not be so hard.”
Psyche Roxas-Mendoza
Thirty five years ago I stood on this beach looking out as the sun rose, some of the high rises you see in the photo didn’t exist then. Many have been built since and an equal number have disappeared. The history of the Gold Coast is one of growth, destruction and rebirth.
It’s day 13 and I continue my ride up the coast from Coolangatta, stopping at beaches along the way. I reminisce over the 12 years of living here in the 80’s and 90’s. If you want to read the first part of this journey check out my blog post: https://digitalswaggie.com.au/?p=2676
Endless possibilities
When I first arrived on the Gold Coast from Melbourne in the winter of 1986, I stayed with a friend in her small apartment just off the main highway. It was a 1960’s style unit block at the southern entrance to Surfers Paradise. Out the front was a fast food outlet called “Chickery Chick”. It reminded me of those road movies you see on Highway 66 in America, with the flashing neon lights casting coloured shadows on the walls.
The blue skies, moderate temperature and gentle sea breeze was like a paradise to me. It seemed there were endless possibilities, in this exciting entrepreneurial landscape. However, not being use to the sound of the sea, I awoke at four in the morning, alert and ready to embrace a new day.
Silently, I left the unit and walked the two blocks to the beach. I was the sole human on that beach, sitting in the soft sand I was mesmerised by the gently rolling surf. I could taste the saltiness in the air and I felt content as the gentle warm sea breeze brushed through my hair.
Could this be the Rainbow Serpent?
Within an hour the sun peaked over the horizon and turned the ocean pink and orange. If there was a rainbow serpent he was here this day. Within minutes of the sunrise another human appeared, followed by another until there was a line of people walking just above the tidal mark in each others footsteps.
It might surprise people to know that the Gold Coast hasn’t alway been a tourist attraction. While tourism featured throughout its European history, it wasn’t always the primary focus for the area. Much of this early history is lost in the glitz and glamour of the Gold Coast today.
Report on the history of the Gold Coast
During the 1990’s I ran an engineering business on the Gold Coast called GW Toolmaking, it was a tough gig, with a lot of transient business people attracted to the region, getting paid for your work was not always easy. Combined with an airline strike that sucked money out of the economy and interest rates at 15% it made for a really tough business environment. I made the business decision to sell and concentrate my efforts on my. management studies.
In 1991, I published a report called “The Current Position and Future of Manufacturing within the Gold Coast Region”. As preamble to that report I wrote a section on the industrial development of the Gold Coast, I thought I would share some of that history with you.
Real entrepreneurs make things happen
The history of the Gold Coast is fundamental to the region and in my mind is as interesting as any theme park or “White Shoe” entrepreneur.
The history of the Gold Coast has almost been lost, like some of the buildings it has been pulled a part and rebuilt. In some cases lost for all time. I was lucky enough to interview some of the players in that history, players like the late Robert Neumann.
Robert was a one time mayor and major business player in the area. He and his father set up Neumann Mining in Currumbin, he lived during the early years of the Gold Coast’s development. I was fortunate that he gave freely his time and knowledge and I was ever grateful for his guidance on my investigation.
History of the Gold Coast
The European history of the Gold Coast started in 1770 when Captain Cook sailed within four and a half miles of the coast. Interestingly, there’s actually a reef 4.5 miles east of the Tweed Bar that you can dive on called Nine Mile, there’s no indication if Cook saw that reef, but it is a coincidence.
He noted two distinct landmarks in the area, Mount Warning in the south and Point Danger in the west. He used these landmarks as navigational markers, naming point danger after observing the rolling swells and giant breaks.
We used to use the same markers to find the “Nine Mile Reef”, doing a triangulation from Mount Warning and Point Danger (before GPS tracking was a thing). Could he have been referring to the Nine Mile Reef??
Early discoveries
The Southport Bar was discovered by John Bingle in 1822, while John Oxley discovered the Tweed Bar in 1823. The mouth of the Nerang River was discovered by Captain Logan while on a southern expedition by land. At the time he was in charge of the Moreton Bay penal settlement.
When I mean discovered, I’m talking about Europeans and mean no disrespect to the people of the Yugambeh languages. For more information on these peoples you can go to the following web site: https://www.yugambeh.com
In 1840 William Duncan and Edmund Harper pushed north from the Tweed River district. During this exploration they discovered a significant amount of Cedar Trees, enough to create a viable industry. When in full operation the timber getters would float their logs down the Nerang River to a “Rafting Ground”. From there the logs were towed by steam boat to Brisbane.
Civil War creates opportunity
The North American Civil War created a reduced supply of cotton and sugar cane. Always the opportunists, local business men rose to the challenge. Between 1860 – 1870 the land previously cleared of Cedar Trees was re-tasked to grow cotton and sugar cane. Unfortunately, the climatic conditions were not great for cotton and with North America coming back online, the industry in southern Queensland died out.
However, the conditions were perfect for sugar cane and in 1865 the Beenleigh Rum Distillery was developed on the Albert River. It is still in operation today and is considered the oldest distillery in Australia. Sugar is still an industry on the Gold Coast and it is milled at the Rocky Point Sugar Mill. This is the last privately owned and run sugar mill still operating in Australia.
It was situated between the Logan and Coomera River on one of the very few high points, as the area was subject to flooding. The area is known today as Woongoolba, but up until 1930 it was known as Pimpama Island.
Tourism started early for the Gold Coast
Tourism on the Gold Coast started to become an industry when Cobb and Co set up a regular coach service in 1870 from Brisbane to Southport. However, it wasn’t until 1883 that Southport was gazette. Coolangatta wasn’t proclaimed a town until 1903. The small township of Elston was came into being on the southern side of the Nerang River when a ferry service was established and a hotel build by the ferry owner JHC Myers.
However, it was Southport that was developing as a main support centre and in 1889 a rail link connecting Brisbane to Southport was established. Eventually, this rail link was connected to the main trunk line. It should be noted that during these times Wave Break Island didn’t exist and the mouth of the Nerang River was much narrower than it is today. The whole area has been dramatically changed since European’s arrived.
The Southport area was more protected in those times and there were deeper channels in the Broadwater. This made it very suitable for family vacations. The reduction in Cedar trees and the clearing of the land around the Gold Coast led to an increase in flooding. This increased the size of the Nerang Creek opening allowing more sea water into the Broadwater.
Unintentional consequences
Further to this, the narrowness at what is today Jumping Pin Bar, became eroded away due to a number of years of storm activity, some say as a result of the stranding of the sailing ship Cambus Wallace which was carrying both Rum and Dynamite. Rumour has it that salvagers trying to get their hands on the rum used the dynamite to blow open the sand holding the wreck.
The break through at Jumping Pin was probably a result of both the cleaning of land for Cedar, with its subsequent increase river flow, and the blowing up of the ship for salvage.
Whatever the cause there was a break through at this point a few years later which changed the whole typology of the land leading to an increase flow of water out of the Nerang Creek. This also caused a silting up of the Broadwater, including the formation of Wave Break Island. The whole ecosystem changed which would have a later impact on Southport as a tourist destination in its own right.
Elston (nee Surfers Paradise)
During this early time, Elston was not as popular as Southport because access was via a ferry. It wasn’t until the Jubilee Bridge over the Nerang River was built that Elston started to be come popular, then in 1925 an enterprising business man by the name of Jim Cavil opened the Surfers Paradise Hotel.
In 1930 two bridges were built over the Coomera and Logan Rivers providing easier access from Brisbane and in 1933 the name of Elston was officially changed to “Surfers Paradise”. Cavil Avenue was named after Jim Cavil, there is a statue of him on the street to commemorate his contribution to the success of Surfers Paradise.
Railway line controversy
The Gold Coast is never far from controversy and in 1964 the rail link from Beenleigh to Southport was closed after lobbying of the then Albert Shire Chairman, Russ Hinze and Member of Parliament, Eric Gaven. While historical reasoning shows it was a common thing to close some of the early rail lines. This particular closure greatly benefitted the transport industry, which strangely enough benefited both Gaven and Hinze. There are also rumours that the rail line was sold to private interests who had made a tiny profit out of melting it down.
Interestingly, the major complaint over the rail line was that it took three hours to go from South Brisbane to the Gold Coast. “Automobiles are the future said MP Gaven”. However, with the road up grade it could take between three and four hours to make the same journey. Interesting, don’t you think??
So that’s a brief early history of the Gold Coast, Australia’s most recognised play ground. One of the reasons I left the Gold Coast back in 1996 was to go to University to study journalism, and to get away from the incessant traffic jams. One of which I am currently in as I try and ride around the point from Coolangatta Beach to Kirra Point.
Kirra Point….. surfing royalty
It’s time to continue on with my journey and try and finish the Gold Coast beach section of my “Best Beaches in Project”. When the swells are rolling in this place it is shear heaven for those that can handle big surf. The point creates the perfect barrel and many a star surfer has adorned the pages of surfing magazines riding through the ultimate tube at this point.
One thing I notice about riding up the Gold Coast Highway is the traffic, there’s lots of it. It kind of spoils the aesthetic, if you think about it “I’m taking the kids to the beach, it’s hot (well that’s a relative term, but let’s say ok it’s hot) and the kids are ratty”. All you want to do is get to the beach. But you find yourself driving round and round in the hope of finding that a non existing elusive car park”. “The alternative is to park ten minutes away and carrying the inflatable duck while holding the hands of your kids”. Yes I hear you say, that sounds like fun.
Car parking is difficult near the beaches
On a motorbike it’s easier to find somewhere to park as long as you are prepared to bend the rules slightly. As I’m just “ducking” across the road to get a few photos and it’s not hurting anyone…..right;). I manage to find a park behind the no parking lines. Now as I understand it, its only illegal to park on a solid line if you are parking on the right hand side of it, or over it. But if you park between it and the curb you are legally allowed to park there. I would be interested on a legal ruling on this if anyone knows. However, it still takes five minutes to get across the road due to the amount of traffic, and even then I take my life in my hands.
In no time (20 minutes) I’m back on the road heading north. I’ve made a conscious decision not to photograph every beach side suburb as I go up the coast. It’s important to recognise that this strip of “Golden Sand” starts at Coolangatta and finishes at the mouth of the Nerang River. The beach has a number of unique places that people tend to gather, I will concentrate on those parts rather than every little sign posted beach front. My next stop is the famous Currumbin Rock.
Currumbin Rock – Gold Coast
Currumbin Rock has been made famous by many a TV presenter on ANZAC day doing live crosses of the proceedings with the Rock in the background. It makes for a majestic back drop as the sun comes up and the waves crash over the rock. The surf club sits at the base of the rock and is often affected by the tidal surge. You can climb the rock to a look out and observe the beautiful sandy strip. As a beach though it has some disadvantages, being perched on a rock escarpment it becomes more susceptible to tidal movements and therefore rips and sweeps, which can be dangerous to swimmers.
This is one of the most spectacular beach place to buy a beer and watch the waves break.
The famous “Alley”
Moving North from the “Rock” you quickly encounter Currumbin Alley. As a young man I learnt to Sail Board in the Alley. During low tide or as the tide turns during the high tide mark the “Alley” is remarkably calm and an awesome place to learn to surf or swim. However, at the extreme of both tidal phases the Alley can be dangerous due to the large volume of water being drawn out the Currumbin River and the relatively small mouth of the river.
However, in saying this the Alley provides a large arrangement of water activities from Kayaking and Stand Up Paddle-boarding (SUP). You can go further up the Currumbin River or learning to surf at the mouth. It is a great place for families to relax and enjoy a protected beach area.
A good place to learn a water sport
I have added a number of photos of Currumbin Alley, not because I personally like the area but because of the variety of activities that are possible there. As I try and formulate what I think are the best beaches in Queensland it occurs to me that there is more than just golden sand and glistening buildings. Maybe a good beach must also be a functional and safe place for people to relax.
Burleigh Heads – Gold Coast
Burleigh Heads is about half way along the stretch of sand from Coolangatta to Surfers Paradise. While there are many beaches in between, Burleigh is probably one of the most famous. It would sit next to Coolangatta and Surfers Paradise, in terms of being in the public consciousness. Like Coolangatta, Burleigh Beach is tucked behind a small headland. This breaks the swell and causes the formation of some of the most iconic surf breaks in the country. International surf competitions are held at Burleigh Heads. Like many beaches Burleigh can be quite dangerous at the wrong times, the incoming surf and movement of sand banks as a result. This can cause strong rips and sweeps. Generally, this beach on normal days is considered a very safe family beach.
Burleigh Heads is a vibrant township with a number of really good restaurants and coffee houses, not to mention other facilities such as the famous bowels club right next to the highway. There is plenty of parking near the town and lots of shady trees.
Where else could you build directly on the beach?
There are two unique buildings on the beach at Burleigh Heads. These include the Burleigh Pavilion and the Burleigh Surf Lifesaving Club. Both establishments are right on the beach, with the Pavilion at the point and the Burleigh Surf Life Saving Club to the north of the point overlooking the beach. Like all surf clubs not only can you not only get changed, go to the toilet or just wash the sand off your feet. You can also get a drink and a feed. If you want an awesome place for diner, get dressed up and sit on the top veranda of the Pavilion and watch the changing colours as the sun sets.
The Pavillion is tucked into the southern part of the point. You can see the whole beach spread out before you, like one long golden sand ribbon. This thin golden line separates the glitzy coastal developments from the shimmering azure waters of the Pacific Ocean. Making a beautiful contrast from the ingenuity of the human race and the spectacular scenery that only mother nature can create. It is no wonder this area has been called the Gold Coast.
Burleigh Heads lacks some of the flashy tourist hype that is Surfers Paradise, but that is made up for by easier accessibility.
Surfers Paradise – Gold Coast
No guide to Queensland Beaches could ever be complete without taking a look at the world famous “Surfers Paradise”. The beach here is a continuation of the long golden sand beaches that start at Burleigh Heads and go through to Main Beach and the Gold Coast spit.
The allure of a beach life, mingled with opportunity and sophistication is too much for some people, many have migrated north to enjoy the ultimate sea change. Often they drift back over time disenchanted at the dog eat dog culture of the strip.
I think if you look at Surfers Paradise as a beach you may be slightly disappointed. While it is part of the long and seemingly never ending golden sandy ribbon from Coolangatta through to the Spit at Main Beach, Surfers Paradise beach itself is only one small part of that golden ribbon.
It is a section of heavily manicured sand, with sand grooming machinery ploughing the beach each morning. The Gold Coast Council spend millions of dollars each year cultivating the image that is “Surfers Paradise”.
The white shoe brigade
The history of the Gold Coast is one of tourism and relatively unchecked development. Continuing on from its early history in timber getting, sugar cane and cotton. The Gold Coast has heavily manicured image that started all those years ago with Jim Cavil changing the name to “Surfers Paradise”. The real party started in the 50’s, it became a haven for retired people avoiding death duties in the southern states. In the 60s and 70’s (where it introduced the bikini to the world and gained its sexy beach reputation, also thanks to golden bikini dressed meter maids), it created a sophisticated image through successive and careful marketing campaigns.
In the 1990’s it was the play ground of the Gold Coast entrepreneur’s such as Keith Williams (who created Sea World) and Christopher Skace (Sheraton Fame), Stephan of the hair salon empire and Allan Bond (Bond University and Australia’s first America’s Cup campaign).
Surfers Paradise Beach has generally remained the same while high-rises and shops have come and gone. The entrepreneurs of the 80’s and 90’s were known as the “White Shoe Brigade”, white shoes were fashionable back then, even I had a pair:)
Tourists!
Each year thousands of beach loving tourists flock to the golden strip and soak up the endless Queensland sun. They then go shopping for over priced Chinese made clothing, fridge magnets, beach towels and tee shirts saying “Two states to be in, Pissed and Queensland”, along with countess plastic souvenirs.
Is Surfers Paradise the best beach in Queensland? Now this is very subjective, the beach itself is a great place to watch people and to get a sun tan. Like all beaches, Surfers Paradise has its share of incidents. Although in saying this there are numerous towers manned by highly professional life guards strategically position along the golden ribbon to ensure most people’s safety providing you swim between the flags.
Not always so child friendly
So why is it dangerous? A long open beach such as the one on which Surfers Paradise are located in areas which are open to large sea swells. When water hits the beach from these wind blown swells it must then go back out to sea. This creates what is called a rip, you can see rips taking the water out as they are usually where the smallest waves are and there is a line of murky water.
Sweeps on the other hand run parallel to the beach and create small sand banks, as the water runs out through gaps in the sand banks there are strong currents that can drag you up the beach and then eventually out to sea. I used to swim with the Miami Beach Lifesavers on a Sunday morning and got caught in more than a few sweeps. We used to use the rips to get out past the break.
Surf safety first
One thing to remember, swim between the flags, if you get caught in a rip or sweep, try to relax, go with the flow, don’t try and swim against the current. You will just get tired and fatigued, put your hand in the air. A lifesaver will see you and want nothing more that to race out and help you, that’s how good these guys and girls are.
I hoped you liked my history of the Gold Coast and my quick tour of the Gold Coast Beaches. There’s so much on offer to tantalise you and take your money, that you could spend six months and not experience all it has to offer, and that’s before we talk about the hinterland with it’s sub tropical rain forests and waterfalls.
A place to sleep
Having relived not only the history of the Gold Coast, but also my own history in this place, I’m starting to feel tied. Tonight I’m catching up with my niece, her boy friend and their dog “Allana” at their place in Ashmore, if only I could find my way to Ashmore. One of the things that used to intrigue me on the Gold Coast was the speed at which high-rise buildings were constructed. I’m lost without my normal landmarks and I find myself riding around in circles.
It seemed like every time you drove down the Gold Coast Highway there was another high-rise which wasn’t there a week ago, let alone 25 years ago. The same thing applied to roads, I’m on a road that I have driven thousands of times, but one that feels strangely unfamiliar. I’m sure that high-rise wasn’t there 10 minutes ago, or am I just fatigued and seeing things.
This is now causing me some distress and the landmarks I used to use to navigate have been developed and new roads created. I find myself back tracking a number of time. Eventually, I find Ashmore and spend about an hour trying to find their address. I swear to myself that I’m going to buy a GPS before I go too much further on this now coastal tour of Queensland beaches.
I hope you enjoyed by brief history of the Gold Coast. Ride safe and I’ll talk with you tomorrow…..Cheers Swaggie:)
