Finding Eden is one of my bucket list items, ever since I first heard of it when friends of mine used it to rest after sailing their boat across the mighty Bass Strait. I was in the area so I decided to ride to there one morning to fulfil my curiousity. The road south through towering redwood forests is made for adventure motorcycling. Emu, my KLR650, settles into the sweeping bends as I explore the far south coast of New South Wales, heading for a town whose maritime history has fascinated me for years.
A safe harbour
Eden has long been a refuge for sailors caught in trouble at sea. During the disastrous 1998 Sydney to Hobart yacht race, when six sailors lost their lives, its sheltered harbour offered sanctuary to boats escaping the storm.
Riding down towards Twofold Bay, I discover a town shaped by the ocean. Historic sandstone buildings, nautical streetlights and a working deep-water port hint at its past. A bulk freighter waits offshore as timber is loaded, a reminder that Eden remains a working port as well as a destination for travellers.
A strange partnership
But the town’s most remarkable story belongs to its killer whales. For generations, orcas cooperated with local whalers, helping drive larger whales towards their boats. The relationship became legendary, and the Killer Whale Museum preserves the memory of Old Tom and the other whales that made Eden unique.
The history takes me back to explorers George Bass and Matthew Flinders, whose voyages helped reveal Australia’s coastline. Like them, I’m drawn to the spirit of discovery.
Eventually, the road calls again. I refuel, exchange stories with another adventure rider and head towards the coast, reminded that exploration is as much about curiosity as distance.
Further Reading
Check out some of my latest adventures through other recent blog posts including my experience with the Bega Valley Rally and Sailing in the wake of Captain Cook. For a longer read check out my Australian Adventure Motorcycle Series:
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