Diving on the exHMAS Brisbane is one of the most exciting wreck dives I’ve been on in a very long time. Yes I know, another wreck diving blog post, but I have to tell you about this one and then I’m going to talk about camping. If you’re interested in some of the beaches in this area have a look at my blog post : Best Beaches Project
My son Liam and I arrived on the Sunshine Coast on our way to Brisbane. We had agreed to catch up with an old mate and ex dive buddy of mine “Dave” to dive the ex HMAS Brisbane. We dived with Sunroof, if you’re interested in doing this dive you can get more information from the following web page: Diving the exHMAS Brisbane with Sunreef
Giving my buddy the OK sign at 25 metres on the exHMAS Brisbane
History
The HMAS Brisbane was a guided missile destroyer built in 1965 and commissioned a year later. She spent time in Vietnam, the Persian Gulf and undertook relief efforts after Cyclone Tracey wiped out Darwin. She was named after the City of Brisbane in Queensland. But after spending 33 years in the service of the Royal Australian Navy she was no longer viable to refit and the decision was made to scrap her. But rather than just pull her apart it was agreed that she should be sank as an artificial reef and tourist attraction.
Looking out from one of the operational rooms
Now diving wrecks can be a dangerous activity. If you’re not careful it’s easy to get lost inside, this is partly due to not knowing the structure and partly due to the build up of silt, that when disturb causes zero visibility and its then hard to find the exit. Probably the worst scenario you could imagine, running out of air and not being able to find your way out.
A well prepared dive site
To prevent this type of scenario all the doors and bulk head hatches were removed along with sections of the hull plating. This meant that at any time within the wreck you are only a couple of hatches from the outside and an easy escape if you start to get low on air.
Gliding around one of the coral encrusted top railings
Choosing a location
The Brisbane was sunk at a carefully chosen site off the Sunshine Coast specifically as an artificial reef. It sits in 30 metres of water which is perfect for sports diving. Considered a deep recreational dive, the Brisbane adds to the great artificial reef and wreck dives of the world. It is easily accessible through a number of dive operators from Mooloolaba.
We went with Sunreef. You can dive the wreck by yourself if you like, but not knowing the layout we chose to be guided by one of Sunreef’s knowledgeable dive masters.
The ship reveals its self from the darkness
Jumping into the abyss
It’s an eerie feeling jumping into the middle of the ocean, the cold water wraps around you and you get that shaky nervous feeling, you swim away from the boat into the middle of the bay, guided by the boat line which is tied to an even bigger rope. When looking down the drop line all you see is the diminishing deep blue of the open ocean.
As you start descending you get a feeling of increasing excitement, the feeling of weightlessness as you sink down through the deep blue water with nothing around you except the drop line and your dive buddies. Then out of nowhere the hulking shadow of a giant war ship, like a ghost ship slowly appearing from the depths. It’s literally like that, the wreck just appears and as you go deeper it comes into focus.
The wreck is a safe haven for fish
Sunreef Dive Master takes the lead as we follow around the railings of this once great warship.
Once you get to the deck of the wreck, which is at about 20 metres you start your first exploratory dive, this takes you down to the propeller from which you slowly rise as you explore the outside of the wreck. From here drift around the coral crusted structure getting an understanding of the ship. No where is it more obvious that nature is slowing taking back this once proud ship that the image of a gun encrusted with coral and algae.
The defiant symbol of military power is becoming a haven for coral and algae.
Entering the unknown
Going into the structure of a Navy War Ship that is sitting in 30 metres of open ocean, where the insides are barely visible is really a leap of faith. It is at this point that your training kicks in,”Do I have enough air”, “Is my gear secure?” “Do I have an exit plan?” and is my dive buddy equally prepared for what might occur?
You double check your air and that of your buddy, check his hoses and give the OK sign. You then stabilise your buoyancy before kicking towards the open hatch as you enter the darkness, switching your torch on you now see a ghostly image of a man made war machine being slowly taken over by nature, algae, soft coral and an abundant number of fish.
Diver about to enter the wreck from one of the hatches on the main deck
What was once a gleaming polished hatchway and stair case are now covered in silt and algae. You can also see where a variety of soft corals and fans are starting to establishing their territory.
Swimming through the wreck shows how nature is reclaiming this once proud warship.
As you swim through the wreck the shadows and the green/blue glow of the ocean puts you into a new and wondrous world of ocean creatures. For those who think that a sunken ship is just a pile of junk metal polluting the ocean need to see how mother nature uses every resource it can to make safe havens and homes for its marine creatures.
Safety first
Its important to check your air as time goes so quickly in this new environment as does air and before we know it we are down to 100 bar and its time to make our way back to the safety stop. I check with my buddy and confirm its time to go. We swim silently out of a narrow hatch on the main deck just around from where we entered the wreck and up to the bridge where we can hold onto the wreck at approximately five metres from the surface. We stay there for at least four minutes to stabilise our ascent at which time we slowly surface.
Safety Stop on the exHMAS Brisbane
I have now dived the exHMAS Brisbane on two occasions, both with Sunreef. They are a great organisation, professional, safe and with expert Dive Master’s as guides. Each time I see something new. I’ll definitely be going back.
Safe travels, hope to see you on the road ………Swaggie:)
Gary is a travel writer, educator, training specialist and part time adventurer. When not paddling rivers, diving on the Great Barrier Reef or riding down some dusty outback track on his trusted KLR650 "Emu" he likes to explore historical areas and look for the back story.
