Now I’m not one of those existentialist, tree hugging theoretical physicists that claim there are multiple universes exactly like the one we live in. But when kayaking down the Noosa Everglades you get the feeling you kind of know what their talking about.
You see the Upper Noosa River is home to a unique ecosystem called the Noosa Everglades. This 27.7 kilometre stretch of the Noosa River is one of only two everglade systems in the world. The other being in Florida. Although not a tropical system like the Florida’ everglades the Noosa Everglades is sub tropical and has a unique and at time disconcerting appearance.
The water is stained a dark burgundy because of the tea trees leaf and as a result when the river is “glassed out” the light reflects off the water creating a perfect mirror.
Recon Trip
I was on the river for a bit of a reconisence trip to test out my new kayak and to find out what this place was all about. When the wind dropped and the sun shined and the river turned into the perfect mirror. It was a surreal experience and for a time I felt like I was in between two worlds floating along with the sky both above and below me. “What kind of magic is this?” I yelled to my brother who was in just as much awe as I in his bright red kayak.
National Park Camping
The Noosa Everglades is situated at the source of the Noosa River which is in the Cooloola Sands National Park. It starts somewhere up near Rainbow Beach and progressively widens to its widest point at Harry’s Hut. There are approximately 15 camp sites on the Upper Noosa River. However, not all camps are available at any point in time as some are not in use due to restoration efforts. On this trip we drove down the 10 kilometres Harry’s Hut Road a four wheel drive track and camped at the Harry’s Hut Camp Ground.
It costs about $6.50 per person per night and you are only allowed one car in the camp area. You have to book the camp through the National Parks web site Cooloola Recreational Area Web Site and print out your ticket which confirms your name and vehicle number. There are limited camp sites so it pays to book early. If you are kayaking across the lake there are many more choices as you won’t need vehicle access.
Our adventure began in Maroochydore where we packed up the utes and headed out onto the Sunshine Coast Highway. It pays to set your car GPS when leaving as there are many ways to get to Harry’s Hut. Ensure that you have the latest version or end up going down a very long dirt road to a dead end. There were subtle indicators that the GPS was wrong like “This road does not go to Harry’s Hut” and the “No Through Road” signs which should have been a dead give away. Just saying…….. sometimes you have to let your travelling companion find out for themselves. Its a bit like being married.
The Road In
The Harry’s Hut Road is a reasonable dirt track that requires some careful wheel work at times. It rained whilst we were camping so there was a bit of mud, but nothing that would really worry you if you keep you vehicle in four wheel drive and select a good line before going into it. Although you wouldn’t want to be there if there was consistent wet weather as I’m sure the road would flood in parts making it impassible.
There are a lot of deep pot holes so ensuring a slow speed and taking it easy will make sure your vehicle stays together so you can drive out again. When you get close to Harry’s Hut the road becomes a single lane pot holed track that winds through a spectacular forested area.
Trading in the Aircraft Carrier
If you have read my blog on the Ross River Townsville Ross River Kayaking Adventure you would know that I have a family sized kayak. I often joke that I need it to land the helicopter on. In reality what happens when you have kids is you for go the sleek trim efficient kayak for a family vehicle.
Just like the trading in of your V8 street bred racing car for a family seven seat wagon. Then what happens is your kids grow up and you end up buying them their own kayak and you get left with the “Aircraft Carrier”. You can’t just go out and buy said racing car again, apparently this is called a “Mid Life Crisis” which is a term used by wives to stop their husbands buying flash racing cars when other more useful things are to be purchased like “Cruising Holidays”????
A Kayak for a mid life crisis, what about the motorbike??
Well after complaining to my wife for years, she finally said “If this is a mid life crisis you better get it over with and get that new kayak and I don’t want to hear you talking about that racing car again”????, what I heard was “darling it would make me extremely happy if you selflessly went and brought a new kayak and I acknowledge you will need a new racing car soon”.
Which I did, I am now the owner of a green and black Viking Pro Fish 400 sit on top kayak (and a motor bike but that’s another story), this trip was partly to pick it up and partly to try it out on a real adventure where all I had to worry about was “Me”.
The Everglades
The Everglades trip really starts at Borean Point, from where you kayak across Lake Cootharaba to the beginning of the Upper Noosa River. This should take about two hours, although I have been informed that it is a particularly nasty trip if the wind picks up as the lake is quite shallow and tends to become choppy. We didn’t have the time for this so we drove into Harry’s Hut and set up our camp in one of the bush camping areas.
Our plan was to set up tents and then casually kayak up the river to Camp 3, which is also the last camp to have a toilet facility and as far up the river that motor boats can go.
The first camp ground you arrive at is Camp Two, this is quite popular, we managed to get to Camp Two in approximately one hour. When we arrived we met up with a community of like minded people who were also enjoying the river. It was good to have a joke and a yarn with them as you go past or as those super fit buggers pass you.
Camp 3
The next stop was Camp Three, this was approximately 45 minutes further on than Camp Two and well worth the effort. The camp grounds at Camp Three were more spread out and there seemed to be more of them. Arriving at Camp Three is an achievement in its own right with only the dedicated and more adventurous kayakers going on further. We decided to have lunch before quietly paddling back with the wind behind us.
The river is at its widest at the Harry’s Hut launch site and progressively gets narrower until it unable to be navigated just past camp 15. This area past Camp Three is less visited as it requires slightly more planning. Power boats are not permitted to go past Camp Three so the river becomes quieter and you become more attuned to nature.
Through the looking glass
The next day at about 6.0 am we set off to paddle down to the top of the lake through what is known as the Narrows before exploring Camp One. The water in the Narrows was dead calm and glassed out and for a moment I became disorientated, not knowing my up from down, it was like being between worlds. We eventually managed to tear ourselves away from this “Alice in Wonderland” trap and headed through the narrows into the upper part of the lake.
The end of the Everglades or the start
We arrived at a large opening that preempted the lake. On the right hand side was a landing spot and sign indicating we had arrived at Camp One. Another awesome camp ground with well maintained toilets and large flat camping areas. The river stayed calm and we paddled back up to Harry’s hut, this was truely a Noosa River Adventure and a kayaking trip like no other. It is easy to see what they call this stretch of water “The River of Mirrors”.
This is the end of my Noosa Everglades Adventure, but it’s definitely not the last time I’m coming back here, who knows next time I might camp here on a motorcycle tour. The area is well worth exploring on a day trip or on a multi day kayaking adventure. I’m going back soon for a four day tour. Hope I see you there…..safe travels, Swaggie:)
