About 250 years ago the world changed forever as one extraordinary man by the name of James Cook and a company of odd balls, traversed the east coast of what was to become Australia. Back then Europeans knew nothing about this strange land at the bottom of the earth. That was all about to change, and in a big way.
When Lieutenant James Cook RN landed for the second time in what was to be called Australia, it was at a sheltered tropical cove now called 1770. He moored the HMS Bark Endeavour in a bay named later named “Bustard Bay”. I have always wondered why and had assumed it was just a prick of a place to get to and that whomever named it couldn’t spell. However, it must have been pure relief to drop anchor after sailing non stop for months, and finally getting to relax in a sheltered inlet.
The monument to Captain James Cook is situated at the top of the point above the landing spot at that famous day in 1770.
I can see the conversation, “Bloody hell Cook, that was a bastard of a trip, we should call that reef system “Bastard Reef”. “No, No Mr Banks, I really don’t think the Royal Society would approve”. “Lets call it the Barrier Reef and we can name this bay Bastard Bay if you like” “Well if we must Cook…….” just then Mr Solander arrives “Look what I’ve got” “Oh my god man…..what the hell is it” Says Cook. “It’s dinner” say Solander looking longingly at the dead carcass of a Plains Turkey. After a few hours of stringy, dry, tough meat, Banks exclaims “That was the worst bird I’ve ever eaten, I think I will call it a Bastard Bird to match the bloody Bastard Reef we just sailed up”. They all chuckle and come to an agreement, and hence the name of the bay and the bird.
Now just to bring some reality back to this story the bay is called Bustard Bay, legend has it that it was named after the Bustard Bird which we call a Plains Turkey. Although I think my version of it is probably more accurate, after all while I’ve never had the pleasure of eating one, I have been reliably informed they are stringy and tough like most game meat and they smell really bad. There is a good reason they don’t farm them.
Now I’m not sure if that was the exact conversation but it must have been a relief to moor in the sheltered bay, take the long boat to shore and stand on dry land. The spectacular azure tropical waters, unique fauna and proliferation of wild life that would have met them must have been awe-inspiring.
The lee of the point where Cook, Banks and Solander would have stood. How different was this to the shore of Whitby in England.
What’s in a name?
The Town of 1770 was originally called Round Hill after Round Hill Creek which meanders into the inlet on which the town resides. It’s name was changed to Seventeen Seventy (Note the words not the numbers) in 1936 to commemorate the second landing in what was to become Australia. The Anniversary of Cook’s historic landing is celebrated in a festival each year. It’s hard to get over the obvious marketing advantage of naming the town after the date of the historic landing.
However, Cook Town had already been claimed and surely nobody could possibly argue that it wasn’t a great idea. Without that name I’m not sure I wouldn’t have taken the one hour trip off the highway to visit and experienced what I consider one of the best sea side towns in Australia.
It resides on the Coral Coast about one and a half hours south of Gladstone in Central Queensland or about the same north of Bundaberg. The actual town is quite small and has all sorts of building restrictions and historic sites that prevent over crowding.
However, the town of Angus Waters is only five minutes drive south of 1770 and acts as the shopping hub and main tourist centre. If you’re lucky you can get a camp site right on the beach, at 1770 but the last time I went there I was lucky to get a site having only booked four months in advance.
The camping ground is only two minutes walk to the James Cook memorial and right on the beach. It’s the perfect spot to camp and usually gets booked out a year in advance.
There is a beautiful safe, shallow mooring in front of the park which during school holidays has hundreds of small tinnies parked there. From the Caravan Park to the small town of 1770 is a leafy board walk. There’s a petrol station, a pub, cafe and restaurant. What else do you need. I’m sure if given the choice James Cook himself would have retired here.
As you may know by now I’m an avid kayaker and take every opportunity to explore new inlets and creeks. 1770 is an ideal kayaking spot, especially if you are staying at the camp ground. Two minutes of wheeling your kayak to the beach and you are paddling through beautify clear water.
One morning before the throng of tourists emerged from their nightly habitats I was alone kayaking, when right next to the boat a mother and calf dolphin rounded up and cleared their spouts. Initially, I was surprised but that feeling quickly turned to awe as I watched mother and child swim slowly off in front of me. I followed for a while experiencing a truely unique and surreal experience.
Dolphins, turtles and I’m sure sharks inhabit these waters, but so do schools of fish and other marine animals. It is truely a wonderful experience when they are as curious about you as you are of them.
I wonder what lesson mum was providing to her child. Was it “Look up, that’s called a human, be careful with humans they are unpredictable, they can’t really swim either but they’re easily entertained, just splash your tail fin and watch what they do” or was it something more sinister.
This is truely an adventure play ground and a place to relax…… you chose. I’ll be going back soon, hope to see you there.
Safe travels … Digital Swaggie:)
